Bang Rak’s Hidden Eateries

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Eric Chan is one of the partners of Sarnies in Charoenkrung soi 44 in Bang Rak, Bangkok’s Old Town. Eric, Malaysian of Chinese ancestry, has lived in Bangkok since 2016 when he moved here from Singapore to open the first branch in Thailand. He sat with Bangkok River to tell us about nine of his favourite eateries tucked away in the backstreets of Bangkok’s old town.

Prachak Roast Duck

In 1878, a Chinese man boarded a boat bound for Thailand, dreams of a better future in his heart and his favourite roast duck recipe in his pocket. Generations later, his decedents are still serving “pet yang” (roast duck) from the restaurant that started life in 1909 as a small stall in Bang Rak. The area was heavily influenced by Chinese culture and still has many Chinese shrines and shop owners to this day. The original stall had a Chinese name that meant ‘the new shop’ but it was changed when the daughter of the immigrant married a Thai man called Prachak. While the name changed, the recipe for roast duck remains the same and is now famous across Bangkok and around the world. I just LOVE it.

San Yod Roast Duck Pochana

This tiny noodle shop with its tasty Thai-Cantonese fare, tucked away in a small alley off soi Charatruang , has loyal patrons stretching back over 50 years. The most popular dish is chargrilled roast duck marinated with an AMAZING secret sauce from the shop’s founders ancesters. Noodles are especially fluffy but firm to the bite, boosted by the amount of eggs used in the dough and served with fragrant garlic oil. There are now four branches in town but the one in Bang Rak is the original shop. It seats only 25 people but, in true Thai fashion, has extended into a restaurant on the opposite side of the street.

Kha-Moo Trok Soong

It goes without saying that one the most popular dishes is Khao-Kha-Mhoo (pork knuckle rice) in Thailand. The chefs at Kha-Moo Trok Soong have been serving this dish, a a stew of pig’s trotter deliciousness, for more than 60 years. While there are now many branches in Bangkok, this one in Bang Rak is where all the history of Trok Soong started. You can order the ‘piset’ (special) version of the dish that will come with variety organ meats and offal. Kha-Moo Trok Soong is opposite Robinson Bang Rak in Charoen Wiang road

Charmgang

‘Cham-Kang’ (plate and bowl) is a restaurant serving simple, delicious Thai food in a location with an extraordinary vibe. Originally the owners served a few favourite dishes, but as time went by they expanded their menu, now offering a wider range of meals. Cham Kang is located on soi Nakhon Kasem 5 Alley, off Charoenkrung Road. As you walk down the alley you’ll see a beautifully building that has supercool lighting in vibrant colors to attract passers by. Behind the wooden door the atmosphere is something you will only find in Thai restaurants The wall has been decorated with mats obtained from Khon-Kaen province instead of typical wallpaper. The restaurant also welcomes the guests with warm lightings, giving it a signature vibe. Located behind the row of tables is an open kitchen with chefs working their magic.

Rad-Nha Heng

I haven’t seen many rad nha (stir-fried wide rice noodles with meat such as chicken, beef, pork, or seafood) served in Bangkok. But this restaurant reminds me of what we have back home in Malaysia called Kong Nam Mee, which is a similar one but usually served with seafood. It’s also quite uncommon back home but I love how the starchy gravy goes with the crispy noodles. At Heng Rad Nha, you can get a fried egg added into the bowl, which makes it even better.

BBQ-Delight

Sitting in Bang Rak between the Creative District and Silom, this shop-house beckons you in with its busy, roadside open-air grill. I’m told its been around since the early 2000s and specializes in Pakistani barbecue and curry dishes. Look beyond the mutant colorings: the green tikka boti is juicy and beautifully charred at the hands of expert barbecuers. The mughlai mutton chops, too, are well marinated, packing a surprising creamy flavor. I particularly love the naan, which is pillow-soft and really some of the best Ive tried in Bangkok.

Heiji

Heiji is a small coffee shop located in soi43 on the other side of Charoenkrung road from Thailand Creative and Design Centre in the Grand Postal Building. It’s a café that blends Thai and Chinese architect beautifully, giving Heiji a classic, supercool vibe. Its decorated from the owner’s memory of his childhood. The café serves tea, coffee, and homemade cakes.

Wua-Tong Pochana

Wua Tong Pochana is the lovechild of three people who enjoy eating meat and noodles. It also sits in the soi opposite of the Grand Postal Building in soi 45.The essence of this place totally unique – inspired by Chinese architecture and Hong Kong restaurant décor. Wooden tables and chairs, drawings, emerald patterned wallpapers and Chinese porcelain. This is definitely a place for meat-eaters… vegans be warned.

Hanaya 1976

Although its names suggests differently, Hanaya 1976 is the very first Japanese restaurant in Bangkok, opened even before World War II. When it was first opened, Hanaya’s chefs did not have access to fresh ingredients from Japan. Thanks to their ingenuity, the chefs discovered a way to used Thai ingredients for their traditional Japanese menus. Hanaya has been operating out of the same building, located at the beginning of Si-Phraya Road (Charoenkrung 39) for more than 80 years. It seats up to 200 people including private rooms and sushi bar. Rest assured, chefs now have access to the very best ingredients imported from Japan every day.

 

 

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